INSPECTOR GADGETS WEBSITE
Affordable Can-AM accessories for
2010-2016 RT, RS, F3 and ST

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This page is for those who would like to Do It Yourself
If you would like additional details on ANY of these projects,
please Email me at spyderrt@yahoo.com

Inside Belt Guard --- Price of Project <$20.00

This Inside Belt Guard can be made and installed in an afternoon and will help to prevent stones from getting thrown into your belt which can damage your belt and sprockets.  Ask me how I know?

The Inside Belt Guard is made from a piece of 1/16" flat plate aluminum that is 11" X 7.75".

1.Download the pattern Here and print out the PDF file at 100% borderless or whatever setting gives you an 11" X 7.75" pattern.

2. Cut out the aluminum using a band saw or jig saw and sand or file the edged to remove any sharp edges.

3. Mark and drill the holes as indicated on the pattern.

4. Mark and bend at a 90 deg angle where indicated on the pattern.

5. Print out and follow the installation instructions found on the Products Page. 

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              F3 Sissy Bar created by Kevin Goedken

                       Price of Project < $25.00

Click HERE for all the details on materials and dimensions.

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                 Fuel Door  ---   Price of Project <$80.00

Installing this Bully GD-301P Billet Aluminum Fuel Door was a bit of a challenge, but once I determined the exact location it worked out well. 

1. After positioning it on the seat where indicated I used an Awl to punch holes where the bolts would go and then drill with a small (1/16") bit.

2. Then from the inside carefully drill 1/4" out through just the seat pan.

3. Now you can place the 1/8" aluminum backing ring that you have cut, drilled, and tapped to 1/4 X 20 and mark out for the pan cut out.

4. I used a demal with a wheel on it to cut the hole (see photo for size) in the seat pan and then cut the foam with a knife, being careful no to cut into the seat vinyl

5. Carefully cut the vinyl seat covering from the center making several pie shaped pieces, but do NOT cut all the way out to the hole edge,  but just enough to make the vinyl roll over to the inside.

6. Using a stapler, pull the vinyl to the inside of the hole and fasten securely as shown in the photo.

7. Insert the bolts through the Fuel Door-through the seat pan, and now thread into the inside backing ring and tighten.  Note the 1 long bolt and lock nut placement in the photo.

8. Made sure you cut the bolts just past flush with the backing ring so they will not protrude to far in or they will hit and scratch the tupperware when closing the seat.

Click on any photo to get a larger view.

Fuel Door Update: I really love the fuel door for its convenience and looks, but I found that the fuel door itself gets rather hot either from the engine heat or from the black color drawing in heat from the sun----so much so that at times it really burns the inside of my leg.  Not wanting to give up my fuel door I fabricated a pot holder (for the lack of a better name) and it works very well.  As you can see in the photos I can still access the fuel door by flipping the pot holder and placing it under the glove box lit.  It is just slid in between the seat and tupperware and can be removed easily when I don't want it to be seen.  It is covered with the same material that the seat is made from, but you could use just about anything to provide a different decoration as long as you use some batting material for the insulation.  I used 4 layers of quilt batting.

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Rear Mud Flap  ---    Price of Project <$30.00

The flap is made from 1.5' of 10" wide baler belt purchased from Tractor Supply Company part #1429917.

I used Stainless Steel 1/8" X 24" welding rod for the stiffener that you can probably  purchase from your local welding shop.

The flap and stiffener are fastened by drilling 2 holes through the bottom 2 holes of the license plate so you can use a screwdriver to hold the screws when tightening.

I believe that the addition of this flap has helped to keep the rear of the RT a little cleaner and it does reduce the amount of rain that is thrown forward up onto the passenger.

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Volt/Oil Pressure Gauge Changout  ---  Price of Project <$75.00


By removing the 2 screws on either side of the speedo/tach assembly you can tilt the gauges out to gain access to the back of the fuel and water temp gauges.

just unplug the wire harness from the rear of each gauge and once you reboot the computer they become available on your digital display.

Now the real work can begin if you wish to change the OEMs out for some additional indicators like Volt and Oil Pressure, see the links below for where and what to purchase.

http://www.marineengineparts.com  Look for: part # TEL67022P GAUGE/OIL-PRES/BLK/ST & part # TEL67019P GAUGE/VOLT/BLK/ST

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BackOff - Brake Light Modulator  ---  Price of Project <$45.00


The BackOff is a control module that flashes your brake lights when applied, to provide an increased visual awareness for those tailgating cagers.

The installation is relatively easy, but requires the removal of the right side panels to gain access to the brake light wires coming from the brake light switch.

http://www.signaldynamics.com/flashing-brake-lights/

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Grip Puppies  ---  Price of Project >$12.00


These grip covers are called grip puppies and they provide a more comfortable grip, especially for those longer rides.  They can be purchased for less than $10.00 from: 

http://www.casporttouring.com

I purchased the small set and cut off 7/8" from the ends.  Use plenty of dish soap to grease them up, and slide them into position.  Rinse with plenty of water, and use your grip heater on high for the first few days to help eliminate the soap and give them a good set.

Your grip heaters will still work just fine, but it will take a little longer for the heat to penetrate the grip puppies.

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Windshield Vent   --   price of project <$45.00
The windshield vent affords some additional cooling air for the driver and somewhat reduces the suction created by the windshield which enters from the rear of the spyder. 
I used a saber saw (how appropriate) to cut the windshield on the machine--after masking it off, marking it out, and drilling a starter hole. 
The vent can be purchased from http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product197.html 
Another project that is not for the faint of heart, but it is relatively easy if you take your time.

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RT Splashguard Footrest heat Shield  --  Price of project <$8.00


You can construct this heat shield by printing out the template which is a PDF file by clicking HERE

The roof flashing metal can be cut and bent easily and fits securely behind the body panels.

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LED side marker lights  --  Price of project <$45.00
These Side marker lights were purchased from http://autolumination.com/fixtures.htm
about 3/4 of the way down the page look for 4 LED Mini-LED Utility Light 12 Volt
1-3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2" Thick - Sticky Back or Screw Mount 12" Wire Pigtail $4.99 ea. You choose the color.
After using the light to mark out the size I used my dremel to carve out the reflector (2 layers) down to the fender. Drill a 1/8" hole in the front of the cutout through the fender for the wire. Clean the fender surface throughly with an alcohol pad. Insert the wire through the fender, peal off the protective backing and carefully place the light pod in place and press firmly.
Use a hot glue gun to seal where the wire passes through the fender. Front--run the wire inside the fender forward and connect it to the front fender light for power.
Rear--drill into the lower rear corner of the saddlebag and run the wire up to the rear running light for power.
If you need additional information please contact me.

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HID Head/fog light conversion -- Price of project <$80.00
The HID light kits can be purchased from Ebay.  You will need 2 sets and you want to specify the headlight bulbs are the 9005(HB3) and the fog lights are the H8, both in the 6000K diamond white. 
Be sure the slim ballast are the ones provided and don't be afraid to make an offer of a few dollars less.
Follow this link to read more about the installation proceedure.
http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/topic/12758-hid-lighting/
This is a more advanced project, not for the faint of heart.

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LED Front Fender light conversion -- Price of project <$8.00
I changed the front fender lights to the WLED-X5 LED wide angle LED bulb-natural white WLED-NW5 0.95 bulbs. You can select any color you like, but I chose white to match the new HID lights.
It only takes about 10 minutes to change these. A quick, cheap, and easy project. 
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm#photos

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Air Deflectors   --   Price of project <$7.00
These air deflectors aid the air flow through the radiators, thereby reducing the engine temperature and reducing the felt heat.
The deflectors are made from 6" aluminum fascia material that can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.
They can be painted any color you choose and attached with velcro, so they can be removed for cleaning.
Black or chrome vinyl door edging can be purchased at Wal-Mart in the automotive section to trim out the upper edge and provide additional strength.
Click on the photo above for a PDF file where the pattern can be downloaded. When printing the pattern make sure that you use no scaling.

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GPS Mount   --   Price of project <$30.00
The GPS mount was made from a few different items that can be purchased online and at your local hardware store.  The brackets as we will call them, are zinc coated electrcal compression lugs for #4 wire, bent at 90 deg and thread tapped for 5/16" SS flat head bolts.
The mounting base is a peice of 2" X 2" X 1/8" aluminum.
The base mount is Garmin Nuvi AMPS Adapter Mount part #010-10969-00 purchased at https://www.gpscity.com/garmin-nuvi-amps-adapter-mount.html
The mount bracket Garmin Nuvi 2xx Bracket part#010-10973-20 
for MY Garmin 200, purchased at https://www.gpscity.com/garmin-nuvi-2xx-bracket.html
And finally a Gilsson Bare Wire Power Cable part#GUSB-5V-B (also GUSB5V-B) purchesed at https://www.gpscity.com/gilsson-bare-wire-power-cable.html 
2- SS 3/8" must are used as spacers under rhe brackets to elevate the mount slightly.
View the photos and lets get to work.

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 Strobe lights   --   Price of project >$300.00

I wanted to add a little excitement to the spyder so I added white Vertex LED strobes by Whelen Engineering.
Welen is the Officially Licensed Warning Lights of Nascar.
I replaced the 4 LED unit next to the headlights with one set, and mounted the rear set in the top of the back up light pod.
I set the flash pattern to my liking, but there are 20 different patterns that can be selected.
I use them when the weather is foggy or it is raining, for road guard duty as required, and when I want to get someones attention.
More info about the strobes and where they can be purchased visit: at:http://www.sirennet.com/whvtx609.html

Another project that is not for the faint of heart, as it requires some major disassembly of the body panels, headlight panels, and tailight area. It is relatively easy if you take your time.